Let’s play a quick game of word association.
When we say ‘Bangkok’, what springs to mind?
We’ll guess you’re thinking luxury malls, traffic jams and maybe some dubious nightlife. We’ll assume you’re not thinking lotus ponds, grassy cycle paths and ethnic groups. And yet, the latter is exactly what you get at Ko Kret.
This man-made island is one of Bangkok’s more unusual attractions, thanks to its blisfully-chilled approach to life. You can sip iced coffees in a hammock, stroll through local markets and discover more about the Mon people who call it home.
What makes Ko Kret even more unusual is that it wasn’t even supposed to be an island. Back in 1722, it took ages to ship anything along the Chao Phraya river to the erstwhile capital Ayuthaya. To fix this, the king at the time had a canal built to create a more-direct route. Over time, the canal widened and became part of the actual river, and Ko Kret was born. Many of its residents are descended from the Mon ethnic group, who were given the green light to settle there.
Reaching Koh Kret is relatively easy. It’s a 30-minute drive west from central Bangkok. From Wat Sanam Nuea, it’s a three-baht, five-minute ride to Wat Paramai Yikawat on the other side of the river. Although the island is just 3km long and 3km wide, it has six temples, numerous cafes and a busy local market. It’s easy to walk round, or you can hire a bicycle all day from 40-60 baht (ignore the place by the ferry that rents by the hour).
Ko Kret is famed for its pottery so we stopped at one workshop, where potters showed us how to make our own creations (which you can keep). Food is also a highlight here, from the fried flowers to the Mon-style meal at Bunyakard restaurant. When you order their special, the owner comes over to give you careful instructions. Ttake one flower petal, add some dried shrimp, chopped ginger, lime, chili, onions, nuts and grated coconut, roll it all up, then eat. The explosion of flavours that vie for attention is remarkable. Or there’s ‘miang kham’, a Thai dish but here served with blue rice on ice.
It’s all very different from the standard Thai dishes most restaurants serve up. But then Ko Kret seems to embrace being different.
How to get to Ko Kret
Head to Wat Sanam Nuea for the three-baht ferry ride across. There’s no direct road access.
When to go to Ko Kret
It’s open at weekends (and bare in mind it can get flooded, usually each September).
What to do on Ko Kret
Rent a bicycle, check out the local Mon restaurants, visit Wat Poramai Yikawat Museum or just enjoy the peace and quiet. You can also take a one-hour ride along the river (90 baht adults / 50 baht for children under 120cms). This stops off at a riverside shop selling Batik items and Bang Chak temple, which has a giant golden Buddha image by the entrance and a fascinating cave system below housing numerous religious statues.
