Whoever put a pair of scales in our hotel bathroom really should be sacked.
When you’re in Penang, one of the food capitals of South East Asia, the last thing you want to think about is your weight.
So, having shoved the scales to the back of the wardrobe, it was time to step out. As soon as you do, there are eating options everywhere. Walk one way and you find bustling dim sum restaurants filled with dumplings, roast pork and custard buns. Stroll another way and there are some outstanding Indian restaurants. Or go in another direction and you’re surrounded by Malay street food offering char kuay teow and Assam laksa.
Our hotel wisely didn’t offer breakfast, so we headed out to try a few spots each day. The winner was Makan Pagi, a traditional-looking spot where you order as you queue (and you nearly always have to queue). Its local dishes were a mix of noodles, black toast and egg and nasi lemak ayarn goreng, a Malay dish made from rice cooked in coconut milk and pandan leaf. (all dishes cost between 5-9RM).
Once you’re full, Penang has a heap of things to experience. Here are our top five favourite things to do in Penang:
1. The Habitat / Penang Hill
Take the funicular tram up the 800-metre hill to get the best views of the island. Close to the cable railway station, there’s a skywalk and then a host of small stalls on the ten-minute walk to The Habitat entrance.
Once in The Habitat, there’s a well-maintained route through the treetops via bridges and skywalks. Squirrels, monkeys and a range of large bugs call this place home, so you’re likely to bump into some of them.
You’ll need separate tickets for the funicular and The Habitat.
Once you’re done, it’s a 1km walk to the vast Kek Lok Si Chinese temple.
Funicular tickets: Adult return 30RM, child return (4-12 years) 15RM (express lane is 80RM and 40RM respectively). For funicular info, go here.
The Habitat: adults 60RM, child 40RM, family combo (2 adults, 2 children) 160RM
Time needed: four hours
2. George Town World Heritage Site
George Town’s UNESCO World Heritage Site is a maze of streets where culture drips from every corner. Coloured umbrellas hang across the roads, Banksy-style artwork appears on the fading brickwork, and hawkers sell everything from coins to hats. It’s fun and frenetic.
Free entry
Time needed: two hours
3. Entopia
Entopia is a butterfly farm, but that description doesn’t do it justice. Sure, it has some pretty spectacular butterflies within its ‘Natureland’ who tend to randomly land on you. But there are also 150 species of fauna and more than 200 types of flora to admire too, in what is a beautifully-designed lepidopterarium. Nearby is the Cocoon, a two-floor indoor learning centre. Our children loved exploring the interactive elements, notably the zone where insects have taken over an imaginary world and have their own toy shops, estate agents and fashion shops.
Tickets: adult 75RM, child (4-12 years) 55RM, family package (2 adults, 2 children)
238RM
Time needed: two hours
4. Book Xcess
OK, so being a writer and English teacher makes me biased, but this is the biggest book store in Malaysia so it goes on our list. Set over two floors, it’s floor-to-ceiling full of books (mostly in English) and offers great value. Our children spent an hour happily browsing.
Free entry
Time needed: one hour
5. The Top Penang
The Top Penang is a multi-complex site with a range of attractions, shops and restaurants. Our children enjoyed the Jurassic Research Center and its 200+ dinosaur models, some of which are animatronic. You then zip up to the 65th floor for the observatory or, for the more daring, a walk along the outside of the building on the Skybridge. Up on the top, and 68th floor, is a curved sky bridge (the only curved one in the world, apparently) that looks down upon the rest of Penang. There are numerous other attractions here, of varying quality, that include the Top Boutique Aquarium (mostly small fish tanks), a mirror maze, bumper cars and a haunted hospital (13 years and over).
Tickets: adults/child 88RM/68RM will allow you to see the main five attractions (Rainbow Skywalk, Observatory Deck, Sky Bridge, Aquarium and Jurassic Research Center). Other packages are good for a year and include a dozen attractions.
Time needed: three hours (for the top five attractions)
How to get to Penang:
We flew direct with AirAsia from Don Meuang airport in Bangkok (5,000THB return).
How to get into Penang:
Visa-on-arrival is the norm for most nationalities (check here to be sure). Go here to apply online. Tip: it’s a little fiddly so do this before you fly.
Getting around Penang:
Grab will be your best friend here. Cheap and fairly quick (expect to wait about 10 minutes on average. Avoid the rush hour if possible, especially if going between towns).
Where to stay in Penang
We stayed at the Granite Luxury Hotel in George Town (440-880RM).




















